Memorex CP8 TURBO UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL Manual de usuario descargar pdf (Pagina 64)

100

transformer,

are mounted on a small printed-

circuit board

measuring

about 4.5 by 2.5 inches.

The parts can be mounted

any order, but be sure

to install the diodes with

the right

orientation. Note

that the 1N5404 rectifier diodes (DI

-D4,

which

are rated

at 3 -A) are specified in the bridge

rectifier.

That's because

a high surge- current rating is required

(by

virtue

of the 4700µF /25

-WVDC capacitor).

The two 4700 -µF

capacitor,

and

C2, must be oriented

correctly. Note

that Cl,

which

adjacent to diodes DI -D4

(the bridge rectifier), must

be rated at 25

WVDC.

The other

capacitor (C2) on the regulator output

can have a minimum

voltage

rating of 16 WVDC.

Don't use a 16 -WVDC

capacitor

at the output of

the rectifier -its

voltage

rating will be inade-

quate.

Finally,

install the 3- terminal regulator

(01) by bending its

leads

at right angles so that they

fit into the holes in the board.

The

regulator can then be bolted

to the PCB,

separated

from

the board surface

by its heatsink (as shown in

the photos).

The

Cabinet

One of

the best

things about this

project

that

you

can

build

your own cabinet.

made our

cabinet from dressed

radiata pine,

which

is relatively

cheap and much

easier to

work

than particleboard. Rather

than go for tricky miter

joints, we

elected to use butt joints because they are much

easier to make. Figure 4 shows

the dimensions of our cabinet.

Cut the timer to the dimensions shown, then

bevel the edges

using a plane or sanding

block. The panels

can

then

sanded to a smooth finish,

ready for assembly.

The baffle (front panel) board

is secured using cleats,

which

must be recessed in from

the front edge according

the thickness

of the baffle and either glued or screwed

position. Once the cleats have been installed,

the cabinet is

ready for

the final assembly.

It's up to you how

you

secure

the

various

panels. We

simply

glued them in position

using a

woodworking

glue.

Four large

C- clamps

were

used to hold the cabinet

together

while

the glue

was

drying. After

that, the cabinet

was

given a

coat of walnut

stain and three coats of satin silk

timber finish.

CLEATS

AROUND FRONT ,

ALL

DIMENSIONS IN INCHES

Fig.

4 -Shown here

are the dimensions of

our cabinet. Cut

the

timer to

the dimensions

shown, and bevel

the

edges using a

plane or

sanding block.

The

panels can then be sanded to a

smooth finish,

and assembled.

The

baffle board

secured using

cleats, which must be mounted recessed from the front

edge

according to the thickness

the

baffle and either

glued

screwed into

position.

PARTS

LIST

FOR

THE

IN -HOME

CAR STEREO

C1- 4700

-µF,

-WVDC

electrolytic

capacitor

C2- 4700

-1.1F,

-WVDC

electrolytic capacitor

D1- 04- 1N5404

3 -A,

400

-PIV

rectifier

diode

D5-D7-1N4002

1-A, 100

-PIV

rectifier

diode

T1- 117 -volt

primary, 15

-volt secondary,

stepdown

power transformer

ADDITIONAL

PARTS AND MATERIALS

Car radio

(see

text),

speakers,

grill

cloth,

printed-

circuit

perfboard

materials,

2 -way mains

terminal

block, 3-

conductor line

cord, mains

strain -relief (clamp

chassis mount),

enclosure, banana

plug, heatsink,

hook

-up wire,

solder lugs,

solder, hardware,

etc.

Incidentally,

if you

are using radiata pine for

the cabinet,

very

careful in handling

the timber.

Because it is soft, it is

easily marked; grubby

finger marks can be

a problem as

well.

careful also not to get

excess glue on

what

will

be the

visible

surfaces of

the cabinet. If

all traces of glue are not

thoroughly removed

they

will

show up

white

spots

when

the stain is

applied.

It doesn't particularly

matter

what

you

use

for

the rear

panel.

used a piece of perforated

Masonite

had on

hand. The

baffle board can be made

from scrap

timber

since

will

later be covered by speaker

-grill cloth. It should be

least %a -inch

thick to provide

the necessary degree

of rigidity.

Before mounting

the baffle board, it will

be necessary to

make

cutouts to suit

your loudspeakers

and radio. The baffle

can then be covered with

a suitable fabric. We

recommend the

use of

either an acrylic scrim*

material (looks

like hessian *)

or a stretch fabric.

The fabric should be

pulled tight over the

baffle

and

stapled

in place.

The radio and speakers

can now be mounted

and the baffle.

fastened

the

cleats

using screws installed

from inside of the

cabinet

(see Fig. 4).

suggest

the use of standard oval

car radio speakers,

which

can be

either 6

4 inches

5 inches, which

have

good sensitivity

and will work

quite well without

any fancy

baffling in

the form of sealed

or bass -reflex

cabinetry. Do not

use high-

quality speakers -they

are usually far less sensitive

and require properly

-sealed or bass -reflex

cabinets if

they are

to provide

a decent audio output.

Hooking

Up the Radio

Connecting

the radio to the speakers,

the power supply,

and

an antenna is a fairly

easy task. Usually, it will

possible

identify

the various

leads from the manual, or

from

a chart pasted to the

top or bottom of the radio. If you

don't know what

the leads

are, you'll have to do some

detective work.

Figure 5 shows the hookup

for radios

with

built -in front/

back fader

controls. Such

configurations are normally

used

with

four

loudspeakers.

Connect the front and back outputs

together

shown.

If your radio

is a higher powered unit with

bridging outputs,

connect the speakers as shown

in Fig. 513.

For radios

that do not have fader

controls, the power

amplifier outputs

are connected directly to the loudspeakers.

Note that power switch

S I can be regarded as optional. If your

car radio has

built

-in digital clock or station memory,

the

switch

should be omitted

and the radio turned on and off

using its own power

switch.

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Memorex CP8 TURBO UNIVERSAL REMOTE CONTROL Manual de usuario Pagina 64

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